An Insider’s Guide to Cartagena, Colombia with Families
Not your standard kids’ guide, we’re giving a local’s perspective of Colombia’s vibrant port city on the Caribbean coast— from where to find the best arepas to sustainable movements the whole family can join in on.
Cartagena de Indias is a kaleidoscope of senses with its color-drenched buildings, music that makes you (and your little ones) want to move, world-changing history that’s still palpable through its places and people, and all of it with the sun-soaked Caribbean Sea to set the scene.
Whether you’re out exploring the history-altering fortresses of the UNESCO-recognized Walled City or gathering round for an impromptu cumbia performance in the shadows of the iconic clock tower, Cartagena will surely capture you and your family’s heart, and fire up young imaginations to explore other regions of Colombia.
Cartagena, Family Style
Why it’s great for little ones
Rainbows of bright colors— from the architecture that inspired Gabriel García Márquez to flowing cumbia dresses— will keep kids entranced, and the family-friendliness of Colombian culture spills into the restaurants, bars and cafes, where children of all ages are welcome. Cartagena slows down for siesta, which is perfect for babies and toddlers who need an afternoon siesta themselves.
When to Go
December through April is the dry season and is ideal for visiting Cartagena with kids and younger babies who may be more sensitive to heat and humidity. October and November are the rainy season. Pair a few days visiting Cartagena with a few days exploring the surrounding area, beaches, plentiful day trips, or combining it with a longer adventure across the region.
Getting Around
Cartagena is a completely walkable (and stroller-able) city, but the streets within the Historic Center can be quite bumpy so if your child is still small enough to be carried we recommend a carrier. If you’re staying within the city, it’s easy to pop back in when everyone needs a break from the heat.
Greater Colombia
We’re all about reframing how we travel to make it more net-positive for the planet. Consider taking time to explore other parts of northern Colombia and its Caribbean coast via road trip, hiking the kid-approved multi-day trek to Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City), or with older kids, directly supporting Colombian communities by jungle hiking with ex-FARC Guerrilla guides.
Responsible Travel Tips for Exploring Cartagena
Cartagena is home to many movers and shakers who want to see the oceans clean, the communities empowered, and Cartagena’s treasured culture preserved—it’s relatively easy to explore and enjoy Cartagena sustainably and responsibly.
There are frequent beach and bay clean ups sponsored by organizations like Fundacion Bahia while social enterprises like Fundacion Green Apple are focused on reducing and repurposing waste at many of the heavily trafficked tourism businesses in town, including several spots you won’t want to miss like Blue Apple Beach Club, Townhouse Boutique Hotel & Bar, Celele Restaurant, La Cevicheria, El Baron Cafe & Bar, and the local favorite brunch spot Caffe Lunatico.
Then there are tour operators like Impulse Travel and Insider Tours who work directly with and employ the community’s marginalized populations to tell their own story to travelers and reap the economic benefits of tourism that come with it.
The government is doing its part as well. In 2017, a single-use plastic tax was introduced to encourage the use of reusable bags, reduce marine litter, and save the bay and its ecosystems.
And to top it all off, the city itself is entirely walkable, or bikeable if that’s your family’s style. In fact, there’s no better way to enjoy the ocean views than on foot or two wheels along the 11 kilometers of sea-facing walls that surround El Centro.
How to Experience Cartagena’s Past and Present
Cartagena is teeming with history, culture and color— kids will love to roam around (and learn something new!) at these classic stops on the historical route.
The Museo del Oro takes you back to Cartagena’s pre-Colonialism days, to the time when the Zenu and other indigenous cultures lived on the land. Kids will gawk at the gold and metal pieces on display and begin to understand the mineral wealth that lured the Spanish to these shores.
A visit to the Palacio de la Inquisicion will fast forward you through time to the Spanish Inquisition complete with gruesome torture devices (if your family is up for it), and the Museo Naval del Caribe does a pirate-plaqued deep dive.
Time your visit to the towering Castillo San Felipe de Barajas at sunset to catch one of the most spectacular views of Cartagena at golden hour (and for parents, a cold Aguila!) and don’t miss wandering the echoey tunnels that snake through the fortresses’ interior.
Shop Local
If supporting local artisans (and bringing home some beautiful souvenirs) is high on your list in Cartagena, be sure to stop by Las Bovedas, an artisanal market housed in the city’s former slave dungeons, or visit La Serrezuela, an incredible multi-story mall in the San Diego neighborhood, complete with water fountains for the kids to splash around in, beautiful high-end boutique shops for the adults, and stunning architecture for all to admire that reflects the building’s original use as Cartagena’s theatre.
When the inevitable moment comes for a cup of proper Colombian coffee, don’t miss the award-winning brews of Cafe San Alberto, the cozy and artfully designed interiors of Epoca Cafe, or the fairytale-like Abaco Libros y Cafe where books are stacked floor-to-ceiling like a scene out of Beauty and the Beast.
One more cafe to add to your list is the tucked away and quirky Cafe del Mural, yet another must-visit coffee destination with a menu full of creative caffeine concoctions you won’t find anywhere else. Follow it up with a wander through the Getsemani neighborhood to glimpse the collection of graffiti and murals this part of town is known for or visit the nearby Parque del Centenario and cross your fingers that you’re lucky enough to cross paths with the park’s resident sloths, monkeys, and giant iguanas.
If you’re looking for organized tours and experiences, there are several local tour operators that prioritize social and environmental responsibility, including the previously mentioned Impulse Travel and Insider Tours, as well as Alternative Travel. Any of these tour operators can guide you to some of the best local experiences and locales, be it a guided tour of the maze-like local Bazurto Market, a day trip to San Basilio de Palenque (the first “free town” in the Americas), or a half-day trip to a dance- and drum-based youth empowerment program in the nearby fishing village of La Boquilla.
Foodies is another tour operator to keep in mind. They offer high-quality and unique food-centric tours and experiences that feature everything from the street food culture of Cartagena to the favorite haunts and inspirations of “Gabo” Marquez.
Where to Stay in Cartagena
Cartagena’s historic Centro is the place to stay for an everything-at-your-fingertips experience in design-forward boutique hotels that drip with history. Besides perhaps the hill-crowning Convento de la Popa, everything you could ever want or need is within walking distance from your hotel doorstep in Centro.
Many of the boutique hotels in Centro happen to be gorgeously restored 17th and 18th Century manor homes, designed with their heritage in mind and brimming with amenities like rooftop plunge pools, spacious family-friendly rooms, bikes for exploring the city, and mouthwatering breakfast spreads included.
Casa Quero is a family favorite with just seven spacious rooms, babysitting services, and a rooftop pool with memorable views of the historic city and its various skylines, while the slightly bigger Casa del Coliseo includes a rooftop pool and other thoughtful touches like an all-day tea, water, and fruit station waiting for you between sweaty excursions into the city.
For more of a design-forward stay, consider Bantu Hotel, known for its exquisite on-site restaurant, or the 18-room ocean-facing Hotel Boutique Bovedas de Santa Clara that gives you a more intimate stay than its larger sister property, the Hotel Santa Clara, and gives you and your family full access to both properties during your stay. Lastly, there’s Casa Claver, a boutique hotel with loft-style rooms, two swimming pools, one indoors and one up on the rooftop, and a steam room for parents to sneak away to if the chance presents itself.
Where to Eat in Cartagena
What’s for the littles? Babies will love arroz con coco (coconut rice), patacones (smashed plantains), beans, squash, smoothies, fruits and yogurts, while bigger kids can go crazy with Sancocho soup, fried fish and of course, no shortage of Gelatarias with a pan tres leches on the side.
Cartagena should be listed as the culinary capital of Colombia with its unique blend of African, Spanish, Indigenous, and even Lebanese flavors. From street food like Kibbeh and Arepa de Huevo to fine dining restaurants like the waterfront Club de Pesca and Anthony Bourdain-famous La Cevicheria (we love ceviche!) even little ones with developing taste buds can get behind the range of Cartagena’s culinary awesomeness.
Some of the more unique and fun for the whole family foodie experiences can be found at Cande, where live traditional dance performances break up your very Cartagena-inspired meal, or at Cafe del Mar, a popular open-air restaurant-bar taking up prime sunset real estate on the city’s fortress walls.
There’s also any of the restaurants ringing the ever-lively Plaza de la Trinidad. Snag a table on the sidewalk there at Getsemani Pizzas or go for some classic street food fare, like stuffed arepas, patacones the size of your face, and fresh-off-the-grill hamburgers while you scope out a bench in the plaza to chow down and enjoy the nightly entertainment together as a family.
To satisfy those with a sweet tooth, don’t miss Pasteleria Mila where decadent desserts like churros with chocolate dipping sauce and gold-flaked slices of chocolate cake await in a gorgeous (and air-conditioned) interior. If instead you’re looking for more of a grab-and-go dessert that doubles as a way to cool off too, La Paletteria has you covered with their dozens upon dozens of popsicles to choose from, including many local flavors like limonada de coco, guanabana, and corozo con chocolate. For a guaranteed sugar rush, the historic Portal de los Dulces in the Plaza de los Coches is a must-visit. There, you can sample a variety of traditional sweets, like shredded coconut macaroons called cocadas or the muñequitas de leche, doll-shaped milk caramels, and sugar-coated tamarind balls.
Eats + Treats
La Cevicheria / Cande / Cafe del Mar / Cafe San Alberto / La Paletteria / Portal de los Dulces
Venture Beyond Cartagena’s Crumbling Walls
While the best food, shopping, and museum-going in Cartagena is certainly within the Walled City, there are a few other sites and experiences worth venturing beyond the city walls for. Day trips to San Basilio de Palenque or the fishing village of La Boquilla offer authentic glimpses into the African heritage and traditions so embedded in Cartagena culture.
Then, there are the beaches and islands just off the coast of Cartagena, full of beach clubs and all-inclusive day pass options for you and family to enjoy a day lounging on white sand beaches or snorkeling in the turquoise Caribbean Sea. Check out the Rosario Islands, Playa Blanca/Isla Baru, or stick closer to the city by taking the 20-minute motor boat to the beach clubs of Tierra Bomba just across the bay from Bocagrande.
If you go to Playa Blanca, be sure to visit the National Aviary in Baru, located just next to the beach. The Aviary is designed to showcase the biodiversity of Colombia’s birdlife in very natural environments. The entire aviary spans 7 hectares and features nearly 2,000 different bird species native to Colombia and Cartagena, including flamingos, toucans, and the Harpy Eagle.
Finally, a visit to the Totumo Mud Volcano, located about an hour outside of Cartagena, is always a fun and memorable experience for all ages. Climb the steps to the 50-foot-tall mud volcano’s crater and slip in for a therapeutic, if not slightly strange, soak. Then wash it all off in the river nearby.
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